The Luxurious Journey

I’m not sure I can adequately describe how it felt to be in Europe again. It all still feels like a dream after a 3 year hiatus. But our week in the French Riviera (or Cote D’Azur) was better than I even imagined it would be.

I had never been to the South of France. I heard of it of course. As a young child, I remember hearing one of the haughty soap opera characters on my aunt’s “stories” say she was vacationing in Cap-Ferrat. I’m not sure why, but the name stuck with me and I knew Cap-Ferrat must be beautiful.

So after covid grounded us for 3 years, we decided to just GO. I researched the South of France with a new zest. I was being given such a wonderful opportunity, one that I had taken for granted, and I wanted to make the most of it. We chose Cap-Ferrat and Saint-Tropez. Both names evoke a certain sense of luxury and fun and seemed to be exactly what we needed.

If you’ve tried planning a European trip in the last few months you know that Europe is on fire right now. Hotels are hard to come by. Since we just started planning this trip a few months ago, we had to get creative. So while our trip involved some moving around (3 different hotels in 8 days) the changes gave us an opportunity to see and appreciate different aspects of the coast.

The Grand-Hotel-du-Cap-Ferrat

When you arrive at the gates of the Grand-Hotel du Cap Ferrat, you immediately see why it is so named. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a peninsula located in the southeast corner France. The Grand Hotel sits at the very end of Cap-Ferrat, and this place is GRAND. The majestic building that houses the main hotel is imposing and stately. The interior is all marble and light.

What’s surprising is how luscious and vibrant the grounds are. Every color of the rainbow is represented, with flowers of all kinds blooming against the backdrop of the  stunning blue sea. Morning breakfasts are an extra special treat…

The hotel has everything you might need – an indoor and outdoor gym, a full service spa, a kid’s club and a beach club for the adults. Their funicular takes you down to Club Dauphine where their massive pool is perched above the ocean. Plush chaise lounges await your arrival, as does the pool staff, prepared to make your stay effortless.

The Grand Hotel houses 2 main restaurants, the Michelin-starred Le Cap and La Veranda. We chose La Veranda for elegant yet relaxed dining under the stars and the gorgeous Aleppo pines.

One day, when walking to the bank, I took a shortcut to town suggested by the concierge. Little did I know that this mundane task would lead me to one of the most breathtaking spots in Cap-Ferrat. That’s the beauty of exploring a new town.

Cap-Ferrat is the perfect home base for seeing the eastern part of the French Riviera. Located between Nice and Monaco, many of the coast’s main attractions are a short drive away. I surprised my family by hiring a tour guide who drove us along the coast in a vintage convertible Citroen.

Our first stop was Eze, a medieval village set on a mountain overlooking the Mediterranean. Our driver dropped us at the base of the village and we walked up the cliffside to the famous Chevre d’Or hotel (no cars allowed to the top). There we enjoyed an unparalleled views of Cap-Ferrat and a nice cocktail before dinner.

After descending the beautiful path, our driver transported us to Monaco. There we took in the famous sites – the Grand Prix, the Prince’s Palace, and Saint Nicholas Cathedral, where Grace Kelly is buried. We ended the evening with dinner in the fashionable Monte Carlo. 

Cheval Blanc, Saint-Tropez

After a too brief stay in Cap-Ferrat, we were excited to continue our journey to Saint-Tropez. There are very few hotels, even 5 star luxury ones, that exemplify service quite the way that Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez does. It is an intimate and stunning property that sits directly on top of the Gulf de Saint-Tropez with its own small private beach.

Cheval Blanc recently took over the former La Résidence de La Pinède and completely renovated every inch of the hotel. From the luxury Toto Japanese toilets to Dyson hair dryers, every amenity is top of the line here.

Breakfast was a true culinary experience here. Rather than walking to a buffet, the buffet came to you. The servers would come to you in intervals, with rolling tables of every breakfast delicacy you could imagine. And did I mention the view…

On our second night there, we planned an extravagant dinner at their 3 Michelin-starred restaurant Le Vague D’or. We had mentioned to the restaurant that we were belatedly celebrating our wedding anniversary which was in May. They greeted us with a table adorned with pink rose petals, followed by a Rose’ champagne toast. When we got back to our rooms, more champagne and rose petals awaited us.

Cheval Blanc is the epitome of 5 star service. From the front desk to the driver of the shuttle (a Bentley of course) to the restaurant staff, they are a standard bearer for the hospitality industry.

Chateau de la Messardiere, Saint Tropez

We decided to extend our trip in Saint-Tropez and stay at a second hotel about a 10 minute drive from Cheval Blanc. We were so glad we did. The ornate Chateau de la Messardiere is a 19th century castle that overlooks the Bay of Pampellone. With it’s old-world style, the Chateau offered a completely different perspective. While the Cheval Blanc is right on the water and a short walk to the center of town, the Chateau is an expansive resort, a 10 minute drive up a hill. With water views and verdant grounds, it provided the respite and relaxation we were looking for at the end of our journey.

Our room had a large outdoor deck that had 180 degree views spanning the rolling hills to the sea.

The grounds were perfect for morning strolls, with paths of green and purple and the air scented with lavender. With several restaurants, an indoor and outdoor gym, a spa, grass tennis courts, 3 pools and a small duck pond, one never needs to leave the property.

But if you somehow get tired of all this “everything” and desire some action, their shuttles (a stable consisting of Rolls Royces, Mercedes, BMWs and Mini Mokes) will swiftly take you to town. There you can shop to your heart’s desire at Armani, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton to name a few. And don’t miss the Dior Des Lices, a chic and delicious cafe attached to the Dior boutique. Walk a little further toward the pier for the nightlife for which Saint-Tropez is famous.

My favorite parts of Saint-Tropez are the beautiful labyrinthine streets. They are filled with tiny bistros serving some of the best food on the French riviera. I don’t think I quite expected the town to have as much charm as it did and I was immediately smitten.

What else did we do besides eat and drink on the French Riviera? Truthfully, not much! And it was perfect. We visited some of the famous Saint-Tropez beach clubs. Skip Le Club 55. If someone tells you you have to go, don’t bother. Bridget Bardot made it famous, and it is one of the OG beach clubs in Saint Tropez. It’s also crowded, there is no music on the beach and the beds are thin. Rather, check out the more luxurious beach clubs at Byblos, or Jardin Tropezina.

Could we have boated? Yes. Could we have gone on more tours? Yes. Could we have been more adventurous? Yes. But this journey, exploring the towns, beach clubs and hotels, and just taking a breath – this was what we needed right now.