The Luxurious Journey

Newport, America’s original seaside resort, is one of the most visited summer destinations in the Northeast. With beautiful hotels, amazing restaurants and a variety of things to do, this comes as no surprise. But if I’m being completely honest, I have always had a love-hate relationship with Newport. My husband would spend every day there if he could. I’m happy for quick one or two night stays. But to be fair, I have never stayed in Newport for more than 3 nights, so maybe I’m not giving it a fair shake. 

I admit, there is something special about heading over the steep and intimidating Newport Bridge and watching Newport come into view (if I’m a passenger, otherwise I am white-knuckled with eyes only on the road ahead of me!)  You can’t help but feel your blood pressure drop and your muscles relax as you descend and head into Newport. 

Before I get to what I love about Newport, I will tell you what keeps me from giving it my entire heart. If you go on a weekend in the summer, be prepared to sit in a bit of traffic getting off that magnificent bridge. The exit to downtown Newport drops you on to a single lane, followed by a traffic light. So you sit for a while, but not long enough to keep you from doing it again.

The other thing that makes me think twice about Newport is that unless you are a resident or club member, if you want to go to the beach, you have to get up early to get a coveted parking spot. And if you go on a beautiful sunny day be prepared to sit in more of that traffic. Covid has only made that situation worse. 

However, if you can bypass all of that or your hotel has a pool or you don’t need to go to the beach or you are an early riser or you are walking distance to the beach or you have friends who invite you to their beach club or yacht…Newport has a lot to offer. Better yet, go in September!

NEWPORT HOTELS

Newport has many hotels, inns and B&Bs. They range from the extremely affordable to the truly luxurious. Below are some of my favorite luxury hotels in Newport. 

Castle Hill Inn

Castle Hill is the grand dame of Newport Hotels. It sits around 3 miles from the downtown area, on a small private beach, with stunning views of the ocean, neighboring Jamestown and the Newport Bridge.  Sunday afternoons on the Lawn at Castle Hill have been a tradition in Newport for ages, where beautiful people gather for cocktails on Adirondack chairs willing the weekend to last just a little bit longer. The Restaurant at Castle Hill is one of the best in Newport. 

We recently stayed in one of the Beach House Rooms and it was absolute perfection. The room was enormous, providing anything you could possibly need inside, including a king size bed, a sofa bed, a galley kitchen and panoramic views of the Atlantic. The Inn’s beach is literally a few steps from the room and the main inn just a short walk up the driveway. You’re close enough to downtown Newport to enjoy it, but far enough to escape the crowds. 

The Chanler at Cliff Walk

The Chanler is an opulent, old world hotel that sits at the edge of the Cliff Walk, above the Atlantic Ocean and Easton’s Beach (commonly referred to as First Beach). It brings to mind the Great Gatsby and the gilded age. Each of the 20 rooms is decorated in its own unique period style. It is stunning. The Chanler also is home to a Forbes 4 Star restaurant, Cara, where, if you are adventurous, the chef offers a blind tasting menu.

The Vanderbilt

The Vanderbilt, Auberge Resorts Collection, sits proudly on Mary Street in the center of Newport’s downtown. The entire hotel was renovated several years ago and the dining and common areas are once again going through a “reimagination.” It is modern, yet still retains its historic charm. The Vanderbilt is one of the few hotels that has a spa, an indoor and outdoor pool and a gorgeous courtyard.  The roof deck alone is reason to stay at this beautiful hotel. 

OTHER LODGING OPTIONS

If you’re looking for a great stay at a little less of a Gatsby price point, there are several options. Gurneys on Goat Island has revamped its look and vibe since its days as the Hyatt. With the addition of Scarpetta and Snowfish and more outdoor lounge areas, it is now more of a see and be seen resort.  Also, in the last year or so, 2 new hotels have opened up to very positive reviews. Both in town, Hammets and The Brenton are having quite a positive impact on the Newport lodging scene. Hammets is more centrally located on Thames. The rooms are “cozy” but offer everything you could need. The Brenton, in town but a little closer to the beginning of Thames, has larger rooms and is also modern and fresh with great views.

RESTAURANTS

Bouchard

Bouchard is not your typical Newport restaurant. It is a perfect, small French bistro. Charming and refined, Bouchard takes food seriously and the service is impeccable. The lobster bisque is a standout. 

The Clarke Cooke House

The Clarke Cooke House has been a Newport mainstay for as long as I can remember. It is unique in that it is actually 3 restaurants in one. 

The Candy Store, on the first floor, is an open room with an iconic bar and direct views of the harbor.  In good weather the floor to ceiling windows are opened and it is as close to dining indoor but al fresco as you can get. The Candy Store burger is famous in Newport, as is their seafood and sushi.

The Bistro, on the second floor, has a cozy, pub feel. If you can get a table by the open windows overlooking Bannister’s Wharf, it’s a great people watching spot. The menu here is the same as the Candy Store. 

If you’re looking for elegant weekend dining, head to the 3rd floor Summer Porch. It is a jacket-required type of place. There is a  ”secret”  Skybar on the 3rd floor for those in the know (you!). The setting is stunning, overlooking the harbor. Top notch food and service with a more formal menu than the other floors.  

I’m not forgetting the Boom Boom Room in the basement. I’m just too old to even think about returning there, but I would like to know if my name in lipstick is still on the ceiling…

Scarpetta

I’m a sucker for a NYC restaurant every time and Scott Conant does not disappoint with Scarpetta at Gurneys. Whether you’re dining inside or out, Scarpetta offers great views and great food. Conant has his restaurants down to a science. My favorite is the spaghetti tomato basil. Scarpetta is currently closed and won’t reopen until the spring. Until then, I’m told Guisto at Hammet’s is a great choice for Italian. For old school Italian, I love Mama Luisa’s on lower Thames. 

Thames Street Kitchen

TSK is perhaps my favorite restaurant in Newport. I love to dine at the Chef’s bar and watch the magic happen. The food is inventive, delicious and sustainable. The cocktails are the best in town.  The chef here knows what he’s doing. 

THINGS TO DO

Beaches

While beaches surround Newport, parking is usually the issue to enjoying them. The beaches in the actual town of Newport are mainly accessible by foot. Most Newport beaches, including  Gooseberry, currently only allow members and pass holders to park. First Beach, one of Newport’s most popular beaches has  limited public parking, so come early for one of the spots. In Middletown, just beyond Newport, Second Beach parking is currently limited to residents and season pass holders. Third Beach (which is a cove) is for residents only. 

The Cliff Walk

The Cliff Walk is a 3.5 mile walk along Newport’s eastern coast. It offers the most stunning views of the Atlantic. If you’ve never been, look here for more information as parts of it are challenging and not for everyone. It can also  get very crowded on the weekends.

Shopping

Newport has some fun, eclectic shopping options. The Long Wharf Mall which is towards  the beginning of Thames has some of the more well known retail stores like Gap and J Crew.  As you head south on Thames, there are more independently owned shops, with something for everyone.  There are also some great shops along Bellevue and sprinkled along Spring Street.

Mansions

Touring the Mansions on Bellevue (once summer “cottages” for the spectacularly wealthy)  is a great Newport activity, especially on a rainy day. The Breakers is one of the best known ones and it is truly breathtaking.  Vernon Court, which houses the National Museum of American Illustrators, is a personal favorite of mine. The mansion houses some of the most iconic works of Maxfield Parrish and Norman Rockwell. Put this on your to do list for next year, as it is currently closed to visitors due to Covid or better yet take a virtual tour online. 

The International Tennis Hall of Fame

As I write this, Wimbledon plays in the background. The Newport Casino, as it was called, has been  home to the Tennis Hall of Fame since 1954. It is a museum, a live tennis arena, a tennis club and a private event space. If you love tennis, I highly recommend visiting it. 

It wouldn’t be summer without a few trips to Newport. Sometimes reflecting on a destination makes you appreciate it all the more!